Here's a little tip on the EN500 battery. There are tons of complaints about loose connections. I, like a lot of people, sometimes just jump right in and THEN check the water depth! Or in this case, tighten the battery connection with a nice 10mm socket, WITHOUT looking at the connections themselves!!!! OOOOHHHH! Bad!

The EN500 battery (NOW I find out) does NOT have the connections going directly to the battery posts! I am used to the Harley type batteries where there is a little square box with a captive nut, and the bolt goes through any connectors, into the nut, you tighten, etc. Nope! The EN500 battery has a little V shaped dovetail at the base of the post and a brass piece that fastens to the post, and everything ELSE fastens to the brass piece! Aha! Said Mr. Mole!!

You can have a really tight connection to the brass piece, and IT may be loose on the post!!! (note the picture of the Positive lead post (the one on the right. That's => that way for Navy guys!), discolored from a loose connection) I just changed my battery out for an AGM type (another battery tip will explain that) and saw the brass piece for the first time!! It was NOT tight on the Positive terminal!! In fact, someone (probably me) had tightened the connections to the brass piece so hard that it twisted the lead poles almost off the battery! Here are the results!!

There is a neat way to fix this, especially with a good battery like Yuasa's AGM or sealed batteries. Normally the brass piece sets in that little V slot BEHIND the lead post, with the top of the brass piece kind or leaning OVER the lead post, so when you twist too hard, you are twisting the lead post around without even realizing it!

When I replaced the battery I realized that I had done that (or someone, maybe a gremlin, I don't have any magic bells yet!) so I figured out a better way. When I put the new battery in, I put the brass piece down into the V slot, but put it backwards, so the top of the brass piece was not over the lead post, but in back of it.

This allowed me to use a 6mm x 14mm battery bolt (from JP Cycles) to hold the brass piece to the lead post. I put in a stainless steel split washer so that when tightened, the bolt would not loosen on the somewhat hidden lead post, AND so that the 14mm long bolt just touches the battery top on the side without damaging the plastic. (you can see it under the the brass piece) The plastic there is a double thickness, as that is where the top portion is glued or whatever to the bottom of the battery case. Anyway, it is a good solid piece of plastic that is pretty hardy. With the bolt just barely up against the case, AND (and because of) the brass piece being behind the lead post rather than in front of it, I can tighten the top connections to the brass piece tighter without risking either twisting and damaging the lead post. That is mostly because the bolt end coming up against the case prevents it from twisting! If you tighten hard enough it will twist,and yes, may even hurt the case, but by then you will have twisted the lead post off or stripped the threads anyway!! NO SQUEEKS on battery connections!! I don't use a screwdriver as that usually screws up the soft bolt head, but don't use a socket with anything but finger tight pressure either. As hard as you can twist it holding the head of the socket rather than the handle, it will be plenty tight without putting an excess of pressure on that bolt end or lead post.

Another small advantage of doing it this way is that there is a plastic cover over the battery before you put the elastic hold down strap on, that has a projection towards the front of the bike, right next to the frame, to prevent the Positive connections or tools used from contacting the frame and causing a short. This method actually moves that connection back further into the protected area by almost a half inch, providing more isolation from the frame.

Neat huh?? Gosh, I am SUCH a fart smeller! I mean......