Ignition Relocation Mod from frame to console

This is essentially the full set of instructions for the DIY folks and an explanation of what had to be done to develop the kit. LOTS of stuff here you have no reason to know or worry about if you are buying the kit, but the knowledge is always handy to have.


The switch we used was proven to be a problem under actual use. It tested fine, but with any appreciable bump or jarring, it could abruptly turn off. I am in the process of finding a new supplier for a switch without this characteristic, but so far almost all switches that are small enough have the same problem. Having a bike go dead in a twistie could make you into someone's hood ornament. Also, the diode assy that I created to give adequate ground reference to the turn signals has a possible sneak path (that is a path for voltage that isn't planned for, or it may be changing a circuit value that is NOT referenced in the Kawasaki factory manual, in this case, I think a ground resistance).

Rather than have anyone buy a kit or accomplish the mod on their own, and have something in it that even might be dangerous or cause damage, I have temporarily pulled this page, as those chances are unacceptable to me.

I now have a new switch, so the notice above is just to remind folks WHY I had to pull the mod. It seems to have taken forever, but it IS done, and I have ridden back roads, washboard roads, dirt trails and highways, and the new switch will handle anything! Not really a surprise as it is meant for a Hardly, I mean Harley! An explanation to the above, I found that a 2 relay replacement for the original high current switch WAS necessary. The "sneak" path I suspected turned out to be a part of the original design, that utilized a "felt" reference ground through the filaments of the tail and signal lights. This caused me to make a few changes. The final mod is almost the same as the original, but using a VERY hardy switch that has to turn (with difficulty except on purpose) through almost 40 degrees to go to an off position That is actually better than the OEM equipment was. I will show the original mod as done so if someone wants to use it with a different switch (I will NOT be responsible for your resulting problems, but do promise to remember you! Rest in peace!) Then, I will show some alternate steps and how to prevent a possible damage to your igniter circuit that I found the hard way, as no Kawasaki manual or documents I or any dealer has found mentions. (There is a "hidden" surprise in the original switch!! We will cover it later!)

Here is the original mod with a few notes added. PLEASE read ALL before starting, and you will see why you need to use the second method. Most of the DATA, not the parts in pictures are the same and should be understood. We are simply substituting better parts and a little different wiring (and connector) for the newer mod.

First, here is how the original ignition switch actually works. The ignition switch, when turned on, shorts between the battery input (+12v) and the 2 Ignition outputs to the IC Igniter module and the Junction box, and on to the different affected circuits. At the same time, another portion of the switch shorts the 2 tail light contacts together. These are simply tying the circuits that already have +12v applied to the ones that do not. There IS a common between the Ignition and Tail light sections of the ignition wiring, but NOT the switch! There is actually a wire shown on the factory wiring diagram that hooks the front brake light switch wiring, which is at a positive 12 volt potential, to the switch INPUT at the Tail 1 contact! Then, from there, it is distributed throughout the rest of the active sections and switch and control inputs. Here is a box diagram from the factory manual showing the shorted contacts in each position. We are going to completely ignore the parking light position, as with a fully charged battery you would only have ab[ut 15 minutes until the battery was discharged. Why they even have that position is a good question, as the manual tells you not to use it! The NEW switch won't use that position at all anyway.

This is the drawing in the factory manual. In fact, the drawing, to be totally accurate at portraying the real world wiring, should be like this:

Where it shows all lines actually connected to the battery when the switch is in the run position. We originally set up the mod to utilize relays to functions as the two half's of the switch, until the switch we used displayed dangerous tendencies towards turning OFF at the slightest touch! NOT good for bumpy roads. Hello! Where did my motor go? During the investigation to find a switch that would suitable fit the limited size, we wound up trying several that also had a heavy current rating that were cheaper and more readily available than the lighter duty ones. Given that current capability, I started wondering if I could use just a switch, and if not why? ANswer, yes. Why? Because of the very confusing and poorly drawn electrical diagram from the factory. After some investigation which I probably already should have done, we wind up with one simple switch doing all the work! MUCH cheaper and easier mod, and a lot less cost as a kit!

The letters at the top represent the Brown, White, Gray,Blue and Red wires from the actual switch itself, that goes to the bike's main wiring harness. Those wires are part of what we are replacing with the modification. We are going to do it in such a way that we do not change any original wiring, or destroy any original parts. that is so we can restore the bike to factory configuration if we want to later on. Here is a diagram of the switch assembly, and the colored wires referred to above, as they are hooked internally.

NOTE: Gray wire will have the "surprise" in it later on!

I am keeping the same color wires in the modification to stop any confusion when you have to go back for any reason, and can't remember what was used where. Always try to duplicate the original color wires in any mod to make it easier to see and even to troubleshoot, should that become necessary at some later time. Next is a practical schematic of what we are replacing the original ignition switch with. The original switch is rated at 30 Amps, even though the bike only draws 10A (fused) during starting, unless you have a starting system malfunction.

Here are 2 pictures that shows why a bigger switch such as the Harley Davidson (Pretty!) switch used by Scootworks on their 1500 Classic relocation kit won't fit. This console with the small opening is used on the EN500, the VN800 series, and on the 1500 Classic is the reason. On the 1500, Scootworks puts the lights REAL close and has to bend them to make it all fit. I do NOT want to do a mod that requires delicate parts AND a switch, to rub against a metal edge with every revolution of the engine! (Yes, a bigger hole can be cut, but I don't like changing original equipment, and the console is not a great quality chrome job, so if you cut the hole bigger, you will also likely start the chrome peeling. This not only looks bad, but allows corrosion to start where you won't normally be aware of it.

As you can see, the bezel covers a lot of bare metal, rather than a large hole! We don't have much room to work with. It would be very easy to cut the hole larger, and it doesn't appear that any structural integrity would be changed if the hole were kept a small margin inside the bezel edges, but I DO NOT want to change ANYTHING from the original. PLUS if you cut the chrome plated (poorly!) metal the chrome starts to flake and peel off!!

Here is are pictures of the original bezel, and the new replacement, along with a couple of variations we will have for the kits. The first new one is a fully engraved one, showing the Manufacturer, Model, and labeling on the lights, as well as a customized name on the bottom. Obviously, as I use ROMAD for my ID, that's for MY bike! The customized engraving can be is a different font and have as many letters as will fit and be readable. The second new one is a partially engraved version, also available as a choice when you order the kit, that as only the Manufacturer, Model and personalization if you were to chose to have it. The lights aren't labeled, as we know what they are for!! If someone else can't tell, well, they aren't riding my bike! The last new version is a totally none engraved version with or without the personalization choice again. The finish is a brushed stainless steel, Very shiny, so much so that we could not get a good picture that showed the entire surface AND the colored LED's good. The entire bezel surface is like that seen on the right side.

We now need to install the key switch into the hole in the bezel. Do so and snug the switch nut up snugly against the front of the plastic bezel. We can also, at this time, install the LED's, with the Red on both sides and the Green in the middle. Tighten the nuts and washers down snugly against the back of the plastic bezel. We will use the Blue RTV Sealant to coat the back of the bezel around the LED's.

This is not for weatherproofing. The LED's are not affected by weather. The reason for this great glob of sealant is to actually glue the nuts in place on the LED's, so that they will not vibrate loose. As shown in the right hand picture, make sure the sealant is all around both sides of the LED's so that it will provide more purchase.


Once you get the RTV Sealant dry, you will need to fit check it in the console area, to ascertain how it fits. If there is too much Sealant spread around where the bottom edge of the console hole is, it will cause the bezel to bulge by pressing against the console edge. Trim it on the sides and bottom, so that it is just barely still around the LED bases. The picture shows it much too wide, but I forgot to take one after trimming. (didn't realize it needed it so much until final install)

That said, here is the steps to removing the tank (NEW mod CAN be done with tank ON!)

Remove the seat, and turn the fuel tap switch to the ON position. (This is what the factory service manual says. As the petcock is vacuum operated, it should not leak. Mine did! Poured gas everywhere! Plug or clamp the fuel return fitting to prevent any spillage.Pull the hoses off the fuel tap

(I had to use a small rubber vacuum plug to cover the main inlet to keep gas from spilling. Avail abe at any auto parts store) For California vehicles, the breather and fuel return hoses must also be disconnected.

Now unscrew he lower bolt on the console bezel (this holds the console on, the upper two only hold the bezel to the console metal. We will remove the bezel later)

Now slide the console forward a little so that the flat catch in front pulls out of the rubber grommet in the tank front.

Lift the console up and put a soft rag or something under it so that it will not scratch the tank paint while working. It can get flipped around a lot if you are clumsy as I am! Use a pair of pliers if necessary, to unscrew the speedometer cable connector from the meter back.

Be careful not to bend or tweak anything. You are really just loosening it a turn, then you should be able to remove it with just finger pressure. The same when reinstalling it. NO SQUEEKS!! Just barely tight! Unplug both the cables from the meter and indicator lights from the bike's main harness.

Set the console aside for now. To finish removing the tank, you have a large bolt at the back of the tank that screws to the frame. Remove it.

Now, you also have another bolt the same size at the front of the tank, down in the valley between the two sides of the tank. remove this also.

Now, that these and all the rubber hoses are removed and out of the way, gently, but firmly (maybe very firmly in some cases) lift up the front of the tank. There are two rubber bushings on posts at the front of the frame where the tank sets, that the kind of u shaped pieces of metal on the inside front tank walls slip over..Make sure they don't get knocked off during tank reinstall. It is easy to do as nothing holds them on the short post, and they can escape easily. That would cause the tank to be unstable, and possibly damage it later, if you tighten down the bolts without it being present.

(Try and pretend you don't see the dirt! Doesn't bathe as much as it should! Too busy riding when not apart!!)

This is the primary holder for the tank that provides stability. The bolts simply hold it down in place.

Here are some picture that show the original ignition switch and wiring. You want to unbolt the black mount the switch is mounted on, and then cut the tie wrap that holds the cable to the other frame wiring. Be careful not to cut or expose any of the wiring. (you can just "abandon in place" if you want, but why not remove it? We will probably think of another mod to mount on that handy bracket sooner or later! If not, then we may bolt a plain black painted piece to it to hide it from view.

Here are pictures of the large red connector we will be unhooking the switch and wiring assy from. It lies on top of the white plastic water reservoir. Unplug the two haves of this connector.

You will have to remove the bolt that holds the reservoir on at the top front end, so that the now disconnected switch and harness assy can be removed without harming it or other components. Just remove the bolt, pull the top right part of the reservoir to the side, and slide the connector half down between it and the frame to remove it. It may have to be "forced" down through, so be careful and push on it with something that will not damage it.

Afterwards, you will have to wiggle it out from between the frame and the other cables in the coil area to free it completely. Then reinstall the bolt so it doesn't get forgotten, and fasten the reservoir back in place. We are almost ready to put the new harness in. (of course we haven't made it yet, but why be picky at this stage?) Here is a picture that shows the removed switch harness in a close up of the connector. Notice that the pins we will replace are simply the same size as male spade lug connectors which will will assemble in the next section.

Here is a pictorial of the wire sets we will have to make up. These will be explained as to how to plug them in later, meanwhile you can start to make them up. The colors obviously do not matter, but we made the kits (and examples) with the same color coding as the bike's original wires to keep confusion down. The only exception is that the bike uses Black with a yellow tracer, and we used plain Black (traced wire costs about twice as much)

Keep in mint that the wires below, will plug onto the lugs on the relays, but must be routed sort of over the top to provide clear access to the water reservoir fill cap, as the relays will mount right in the front part of the tank hollow.

I forgot to label the wires in the drawing,, but you shouldn't have a problem with what is what, with the color coding. They are actually A thru I, from top to bottom. Several of the wires are longer than they need to be once installed, but need the extra length DURING installation. One is the ground reference wire for the Turn Signal LED, which we will see later. The wires can be pushed down into the free area after install. Make sure you do not catch any wires and pinch them when replacing the tank. A short could cause anything from no start, to a fire!!

Wire A

12" Black #14, terminated on one end with a 5/16" ring lug. Other end is terminated with Yellow (size 12 AWG) female lug crimp type receptacle (.250" wide), along with the end of a 9" Black #14 jumper to go to R-1, pin 85, with other end of the jumper also terminated in a Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle that goes to R-2, pin 85.

This is the 14AWG size ring connector we will use on wire A and on the Turn Signal LED connections.

This is the Yellow 12AWG size connector we will use on the relays, and for any doubled wires, elsewhere.

Wire B

19" White #14 wire (one end to be terminated later, leave as is for now) terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle, along with an 8" White #16 wire to R-1, pin 30, with the other end terminated in a 2 pin moles connector (male shell, female pin), plugged into the flat side of the Molex connector. (this will connect to the switch that is mounted on the tank console)

Notice the white wire going to the flat side. This is the make half of the shell.

Wire C

19" Gray #14 wire (one end to be terminated later) terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-1, pin 87a.

Wire D

19" Brown #14 wire (one end to be terminated later) terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-1,pin 87b.

Wire E

12" Blue #14 wire (one end to be terminated later) terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-2, pin 87a.

Wire F

12" Red #14 wire (one end to be terminated later) terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-1, pin 30.

Wire G

9" Red #16 wire terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-2, pin 86, other end to be terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle along with one end of an 8" Red #16 jumper terminated with Yellow female lug crimp type receptacle to R-1, pin 86. Other end of 8" Ref #16 wire to be terminated in the 2 pin moles connector (male shell, female pin), plugged into the peaked side of the Molex connector.

the Red wire goes to the right, peaked side of the connector shell half.

Wire H

3" White #15 wire to be terminated in 2 pin moles connector (female shell, male pin), plugged into the flat side of the Molex connector. Insert other end into 1/8" diameter, 1" long shrink tubing (to insulate the switch contacts from possible short) and solder the end to the pin 1 of the switch (the pin set off by itself, I cut off the one not used in the example and in the kits) Bring shrink tubing down to the body of the switch and shrink in place (do not use too much heat or it will simply split or harm the wires or switch).

Wire I

3"Red #16 wire to be terminated in 2 pin moles connector (female shell, male pin), plugged into the peaked side of the Molex connector. Insert other end into 1/8" diameter, 1" long shrink tubing (to insulate the switch contacts from possible short) and solder the end to the pin 1 of the switch These are all shown here.

Here is a picture of the 5 hole separator board.

Now, take the 5 hole separator (this keeps the wires properly aligned with their respective holes in the bike's maine wiring harness connector, and also will be used to secure them there, as well as help form a weather proof connection (later). with white side up. Insert #14 un terminated wires made in harness earlier into their respective holes from the red side, with white surface facing you and with the three holes at the top, and the two holes at the bottom left. The wires are inserted as follows: (remember you are inserting them from the bottom red side, so they can be terminated on the white side)

Top left = White wire

Top middle = Gray wire

Top right = Red wire

Lower left = Brown wire

Lower middle = Blue wire

Slide the 5 hole separator back on the wires, out of the way.

Here the wires are through the separator and ready to terminate with the Blue #14 Spade Lug connector.

Now terminate each wire with a Blue #14 Male spade lug connector (.250" wide).

This is the 14AWG Spade Lug type connector. They replace the other half of the ignition wiring harness that we removes by plugging directly into the proper color matching holes.

This shows how they will plug in. We are using the one size ONLY (Blue #14, the yellow ones were just being used to test which was best. The yellow ones would not provide as good a crimp onto 14 AWG wire) so that the separator plate will press against the back of the connectors, holding them in place once we have completed all the steps. Once all wires are terminated, slide the separator down to the connectors, and they are now ready to plug into the bike's main wiring harness connector (where we unplugged the original ignition switch connector half from).

That concludes the wiring harness for the most part. You now have the main harness wired to the relays, and the Molex connector which will hook up to the switch, and the switch to it's mating Molex connector.


Now we can start to hook up the bezel (cover) LED's to the cable that will plug into the bike's main harness. I could not find a replacement for the connectors (they are not US standard, but Japanese parts which I could not cross reference) so I bought original wiring connectors from Kawasaki. Things like this is what has driven the price so high. I will say again, that all of my modifications are only done if they can be undone. I do not like to use wire splices and added connectors to a cabling harness. I did do that when I put in my headlight modulator and tail light modulator units, but regret it. I like to be able to revert to original, without leaving any mess behind, plus the connectors are all large and bulky, and the one thing we have the least of on this bike is extra room!. Like I have said before, we do occasionally sell or trade bikes, and the new owner may not want your Bling! That could cost you money or even a trade. So, original IS available my way, if necessary. Not to mention it is neater and easier to troubleshoot if necessary. If you have to cut something out of the way, that you have added or changed, you are not much of a mechanic. But, that's only my opinion. I do everything as if I were still designing for commercial use. I am an Amateur Radio Operator (K1JAN), so I DO know how to kludge with the best of them, but NOT on things I sell or put on other people's bikes!

This is what the light cable harness looks like from the factory. The rubber boots go into the holes in the original bezel, and the colored light tops (which are chromed plastic, with a colored refraction lens) push into them after the bulb is inserted, to keep them in place. For use in the kit, I cut off the wires right at the rubber boot. (boots are thrown in a box where they will undoubtedly become something else some day!) This way, we unplugged the original, still hooked up to the bezel and removed it all together, ready to what? PUT BACK together if we want or need to!!

We use the harness, with the wires soldered to the LED leads (the LED negative lead has a resistor in it so it will work properly with 12 volts. LED's only require about 2 volts at 200 milliamps to operate at full brightness. The resistor acts as a current limiter so the LED won't burn out connected to the bike's 12 volt system).

Here we can see the resistor shrink tubing covered, in the negative line of the LED. They are all the same, both the Red and Green LED's. If you need to cut the wires to the LED, make sure it is below the resistor, so it stays in circuit. The LED will blow faster than you can see it go if connected to 12 volts without it.

The wiring pattern is based on the original wiring diagram, but we will have to make a change for the mod to work. The Brown wires (2) go to one side of each Red LED. This is the +12 volt side, which actually goes through the wiring harness to the junction box and the 10 Amp fuse for the Ignition system. They are both tied together in the bike side of the wiring harness, so we can just attach them as follows:

Brown with Yellow/White: The Brown wire goes to the Red LED wire for the Temperature light. The Yellow with White tracing goes to the black, negative wire to the LED. Then, whenever the temperature sensor senses too hot a temperature, it shorts to the engine block, providing a ground and lighting the LED.

Brown with Blue/Red: The Brown wire again goes to the Red LED wire for the Oil Pressure light. The Blue with Red tracing goes to the black, negative wire to the LED. When the Oil Pressure drops below a preset level,. the sensor goes resistive to the engine block, even shorting to it if the oil pressure goes low enough not to activate the sensor. This provides a ground and lights the LED.

Both of the sensors work as most automobile ones do. They actually start at a high resistance (they are in fact a mechanically controlled variable resistor, with the part of the sensor that reacts to heat or pressure actually moving a component inside the sensor, that changes the resistance to a lower value, the same as if you turned a volume control switch on a radio. When the resistance goes less (it doesn't do it all at once, because most sensors are built for meter use as well as idiot lights) than a preset value, the current in the line allows enough to illuminate the light. That is why if your pulling high revs, you may see the lights brighten, if the regulator system in your bike isn't controlling the current to those lights. Most Kawasaki bikes do, but not all I have found. The EN500, VN800 and the VN1500 Classic do (this kit works for all but the 1500, it needs a bigger bezel, everything else is the same). If there were meters, they would change value as the resistance did, indicating a change rather than just lighting a light. We don't need that on a bike because the difference between a good operating range in oil pressure or temperature is small compared to a wide range an automobile engine may have. If we are lit, we are either real close to trouble or all ready in it!

The LED for the turn signal is kind of a problem. We have to add something to the circuit here. The original circuit uses an incandescent bulb, that doesn't care where negative and positive voltages appear, as long as they are on different leads! The ground for this light is actually through the front and rear turn signal bulbs! It uses their filament resistance as a reference ground. As the original bulb isn't very fussy, that works fine. You turn on the right signal, and the ground is felt through the left bulbs to the frame, and the positive is applied intermittently to the other side of the bulb from the turn signal relay, which is just an on/off switch inside a box. It operates at a set speed with a particular voltage (our nominal 12 volts in this case) unless something is wrong with it or the resistance to ground is changed. Ever see your dash indicator blink real rapidly! Means you have a bulb out on the opposite side that is not providing a path to ground to the relay, because one filament is burned through! That means that the remaining filaments cause more resistance and it changes the timing of the relay. [resistances or filaments in this case, in parallel, which is how our circuit sees it, makes the felt resistance less then one half of that of either filament alone - Electronics lesson 101 complete!] NOTE: Some cars blink rapidly when ANY bulb or the relay malfunctions)

Because we are using an LED, which is actually a Light Emitting Diode, that emits light when current passes through it, it requires a positive on one specific side, and the ground on the other. Swap them and it cannot light. A Diode passed current (or voltage if it is easier to think of it that way) in just one direction The Negative potential or ground always has to be at the bar end of the diode (think of it as the negative potential going against the arrow in the symbol of a Diode.)

This represents the new circuit we are going to create to replace the original incandescent bulb circuit. This will allow the right or left turn signal contact on the switch to send the positive signal through either diode (and remember it can't flow around and back through the other as it won't pass in that direction! That prevents a short or overload on the other circuit. In other words, it isolates the two functions from one another, but uses both for a single source to activate the LED)

Here is what we will be building into the wiring harness replacement itself. The two diodes will be in parallel with each other at one end, with the separate ends going to the Gray wire to the harness connector, and the other to the Green wire going to the harness connector. The common end will tie to the Red wire of the Turn Signal LED, and we will add a 13 1/4 " Black 18 AWG wire from the LED's Black lead, and terminate the other end in a 5/16" ring lug, that will fasten to the frame grounding screw along with Wire A that we created for connection to the ignition relays. This is one of the keys to making this whole modification work. Otherwise everything else would work, but we would have no indication that our wonderful NON-canceling turn signals are still flashing away at the vehicles behind us, thereby giving them a fairly valid excuse to use in court when they run over us!!

OK, final part!! Let's build the bezel wiring harness and be ready to install it on the bike!! YES!

First, as stated earlier, we cut the rubber light holders off flush at the back of the rubber where the connector base is. This will give us the maximum length to work with. We can always coil up or stuff in the hole, any extra wire length not needed, but I have never been able to buy a reliable set of wire stretchers, if we get something too short! Once we have done this, we also need a black wire (I used # 18 AWG) 13 1/4" long to use as the ground reference wire for the turn signal LED as explained earlier! Now we take a piece of 1/2" shrink tube (not the real stiff kind, we want it to flex a little so we can stuff it down inside the tank easily) for putting around the wires. I suggest this be 4 1/4" long. The one in the picture is 5/16" diameter, and 5+ inches long, and caused problems. It was too small a diameter and too long. I finally got it in place but there was NO wiggle room!

That is shown here.

Also the length was cut back from the first picture to allow some 1 1/4" lengths of 1/8" shrink tubing to be put down over the Green and Gray wires that hook to the Diode pair and still be able to get at them later. As you can see in the picture, I almost (only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades!) pushed them down out of sight AND reach! Careful!

Here is a close up of these shrink tubing pieces pushed down out of the way, and where any heat from soldering might shrink them ahead of time. THAT is annoying!.

We will also need 6 1" pieces of 1/8" shrink tubing to go over the soldered connections to the LED's from the harness to prevent shorts, and 2 1 1/4" pieces for the Diode pairs bare wire leads. I also used a 3/4" piece for the common end of the Diode pair where it hooks to the Turn Signal LED s Black lead, which will then be terminated at the other end by a # 14 Ring Terminal Crimp connector, which fastens to the frame ground screw, along with the ground wire A from the relay harness. These are shown in place below.

Here are all the wires properly soldered to their respective places, including the Diode pair to the Gray and Green wires, and to the Red lead of the Turn Signal LED. Notice the Black 18 AWG wire soldered to the Turn Signal LED's Black wire. The shrink wrap has then been brought up over the connections and shrunk down.

This right picture shows the two 1 1/4" pieces pulled out of the wider tubing, and shrunk over the Diode leads bare wire. Now we are going to put a small 4" or so tie wrap (I used Christmas Green, to go with the Red and other colors! Aren't I just colorful?) around the base of the wires from the LED's and bend them so they are gathered in the middle, but WITHOUT bending them sharply or enough to put a strain on the plastic bottoms of the LED assemblies! I used a small tie wrap so it not only holds them all together there, but allows the shrink wrap to slide over it, and sort of grab onto it along with the wires, so vibration won't allow it to slide up the wires later.

Once that is shrunk in place, and the Black 18 AWG wire is terminated with a #14 Ring Terminal Crimp connector, we are finished!!

Here is the completed bezel assembly!

And here is the whole kit! Complete and ready to install!

All ready for a quick install!! If you bought the kit, you will have about an hour tied up putting it in the bike! If you are a DIY type, like me, there goes one more hour after about a dozen or more getting everything else right! (That's IF you could find parts that fit!)

Now we only have to install everything in the bike!! That will be the next and final step(s) before we turn the key, and ride away into the sunset with no jangling from the keys against the frame, and only the sound of our Gremlin Bells (mine's prettier than yours!) intruding on our ride!

We are now going to put the kit into place. Because several parts won't fit through the hole in the middle area of the tank, we have to do some operations with the tank off, then a few more after it has been reinstalled.

The first thing to do is unscrew the ground screw that goes to the frame right in back of the reservoir fill tube and cap. We need to put on the ring lug from the relay assembly (black wire) and then leave the screw just barely screwed in ( a couple of turns) so we can easily get at it when the tank is back on. We will be putting the ground reference wire onto it then, from the circuit we added to the light assembly to enable the LED to work.


Now we will put the #14 spade lugs connected to the relay harness into the slots in the remainder of the ignition harness we left on the bike. This is a female connector. Just plug the male spade lugs into the appropriate hole. They should be easy to align if they were put into the separators properly (now see, if you had bought a kit, they already would be!) Make sure they are firmly seated, and pushed all the way in. If one doesn't seem snug, you may have to tighten the receptacle part to make a more secure connection. While doing this install I found that one of the wires in my bike ((2002 model) was loose, and the spade lug slipped in too easily, and without any real resistance. I could just shake the connector and it would fall out! And I had had a problem sometimes with starting, but was never able to pin it down before it "fixed" itself. This may have been it. I just used a pick tool to squeeze the outside ears of the receptacle tighter, so the spade lug had a good friction tight fit like the others. It should not be hard to fully insert them, but the terminal lugs should have some resistance to being inserted, so you know they will grip adequately.

The Red relay wire goes to the Red wire receptacle, the Gray relay wire goes to the Gray wire rectal, the White relay wire goes to the White wire rectal, The Brown relay wire goes to the Brown wire rectal, and finally (this is slightly different as the harness colors change here) the Blue relay wire goes to the Blue/Red tracer wire rectal.

Now we can bring the separator up to the back of the #14 Blue spade lug terminals, and we will thread tie wraps between the outside set of wires on both side of the connector and separator plate, and draw them snug. (Not too tight, as we can break the separator plate. This just keeps the terminals from loosening and backing out of the connector from vibration.

That is all you HAVE to do, but I recommend using the Blue RTV sealant we provide with the kit (see, there's another expense if you didn't buy the kit, cheapskate! Ha!)

I am going to use the sealant to not only make the entire connection weatherproof (which it WASN'T before), and to make sure it provides more anti-vibration protection to the connector/separator interface. If and when you want to remove what we added, the RTV will pull out with the terminal lugs, just like a big rubber plug.

PLEASE WEAR NITRILE OR LATEX GLOVES HERE! The Blue RTV is SENSOR SAFE, but that's not the same as HANDS SAFE! There are not many, but there are a few people who are allergic to the chemicals used in gasket RTV, which is what this is. We used it because it was the most inert, and could not cause shorts because of metal filling components (DO NOT USE YOURS IF IT CONTAINS ANY COPPER OR OTHER METALLIC SUBSTANCE! IT WILL CAUSE SHORTING! MANY of the RTV's used for gasket making DO contain metal or graphite, which WILL conduct electricity. If you don;t use what I do, then use clear silicon RTV from the hardware store!) Use a paper towel or something under the connector/separator while you apply the silicon, so that none drips on any other bike part or paint.

Here we have the RTV applied and then smoothed out with a gloved finger (gloves also keep you from having a blue finger for weeks!) to make sure it fills all voids. (again, not necessary, but I like to overkill rather than not do enough) It CAN dry in an hour in warm conditions so that the tank could be put back on, but it is cold here now (relatively so, at least, so the RTV hardens slowly) so I will leave the RTV sealant to dry for 24 hours before continuing with the tank re-install and final installation of the switch and bezel. ALMOST DONE!! Now we just need to install everything back together with the tank and the new relay system and harnesses.

OK! Here is the NEW mod! It uses a LOT of the same data as the first, but with a different switch, a different (larger) Molex wire set to the switch, a FACTORY replacement (well, a Japanese equivalent!) switch connector male half, and a LOT less time. Let's jump in!!!

First we are going to remove the old switch by simply pulling it apart inside the tank tunnel, cutting (yes, i am finally going to cut an ORIGINAL part, but I CAN solder it back together!) the cable assembly and pulling it out of the top of the tank, and the old switch away from the frame on the bottom.

These pictures show, in sequence, all the steps above. Prying the switch halves apart, unfastening the switch plate from the frame, cutting (aargh!) the cable, and pulling the assembly out the top of the tank.

Look Ma! No switch!!!!

OOOh! MUCH easier. Now on to the assembly of the switch and bezel assembly. All the explanations in the first text are still applicable, so refer to any of them if you need to.

Here is the new switch by itself and mounted in a new bezel. I chose to use a colored one instead of the original metallic ones, but they will still be available.

This pictures shows the (barely) adequate clearance for the switch through the metal bezel.

This is the switch I decided to use. It was the only heavy duty one that stayed on well under all conditions, AND still fit in the metal bezel area without any cutting of the original metal. It is available from many catalogs, including J&P Cycles, Dennis Kirk, etc. for under $20. There are usually two types, one with 3 wires and one with 2. As we are actually only turning on the relay activating voltage, the 2 wire is cheaper and easier to work with.

Another view showing the fit through the metal bezel.

It may not be evident in some of the pictures, but I laser cut a clear overlay piece also, to keep the softer engraved plastic from getting scratched up.

This view shows the switch chromed nut fastened down onto both the clear and engraved layers of the new plastic bezel.

Some of the switches come with this plastic cover over the back. It does protect it well, but is so thick it impedes the switch fitting well, so I discarded it and used some RTV to insulate the contacts just in case.

These pictures just show the LED's, and mounting nuts. This last pictures shows a piece of shrink tubing over the in-line resister that allows the LED's (they only use 2v) to be used in 12V systems, a little extra strength in case of bending. The original is pretty insubstantial.

Here the pictures show the Diodes that provide the 12V to either turn signal indicator LED without allowing a feedback path to the other sides circuit, as explained in the first mod's text. I just covered them with shrink tubing to protect them, and only used clear to show everyone here a better view. PLEASE excuse the soldering, the iron and I were NOT having a good day!

This is the wire we will use to provide a ground reference to the turn signal LED's common point. In the original circuit, the ground reference was provided by resistance of the opposite sides bulb filaments. (read in 1st mod text) Here we show the main assembly of the switch and wires, just waiting to be married up to the LED's (same as in 1st mod)

This just shows some detail where I reused the original mod cables and plugs, soldered to the new LED's

Voila!! The finished, pretty (at least I think so) plastic bezel, protective clear layer, and wiring assembly ready to go!


Here are the wires ready for the crimped connectors on our new connector half. (it is also cheaper to reuse the original we cut off to remove the ignition switch without removing the tank earlier, I just had gotten these before actually (Arrgh) cutting the cables. Remember, these come from the relay harness (or splice to it, if you are reusing the original connector)

This is the type of crimper needed for proper crimping of the new connector contacts, if used.

This shows the type of "fold-over" crimp the contacts need.

And here is the result of a properly crimped contact and wire.

The wires all ready for insertion into new connector shell.

And here we are all inserted. Or, it could be a picture of your reused original spliced into the wire harness! (cheapskates!)

These 3 pictures show the inside contacts, and wires connected to the back of the original switch. Notice the itty bitty resister hidden behind the brown wire (it usually lays right over the top of it, hiding it nicely!) This resister IS NOT IN ANY MANUAL I HAVE FOUND!!! It evidently provides a current limiter preventing too much current from being drawn by the Igniter Module, which is where the gray wire goes to. It is only a 1/8th watt (I used a 1/4th watt), 100 ohm resister, which doesn't pass a lot of current anyway, but limits the amount that the Igniter Module CAN pull down to around .12 - .14 Amps. NOT much! I assume, as i said, it is mentioned nowhere, that it i to protect the module itself. That is good, because they ARE expensive.

Here we just show the resister crimped to the wire ends, but soldering is just as good, then covered with shrink wrap and tied to the rest of the bundle for stability, and to reduce any strain on the resister/wire interfaces


A little electrical tape to cover up the mess, I mean work, and we now have a whole harness, and we only have to tie in the switch harness through the switch wires (the red and white with a Molex connector). I used a Radio Shack standard Molex connector this time, for better strength being as we used bigger wires on everything this time. (I used 12 AWG, but even 14 would be fine. Only the White and Brown wires carry a great amount of current. On them, it CAN be up to 10 Amps, so a bigger size is better.

Here is everything all plugged together and ready to install. (We DO have to take the plastic bezel off the switch, because of its size, the switch has to be mounted from below the metal bezel, and the Plastic parts and LED assembly, connectors and all, attached back to the switch from the top)

Now we cover all possibly exposed connections with some RTV and let it dry. There really isn't anything for them to contact except the plastic cap from the coolant tank and overflow bottle, but I like to be careful.

Here is what mine looks like.


Here we have installed the switch from below, put it al back together and are putting everything back together, being careful not to scratch the paint. (what yellow rag is for)

Here we see the connector halves back together and the harnesses routed around so they are not in the way of anything, or that they impede any movement of the caps.

We have "stuffed" everything back together (see 1st mod if you need guidance, the only real difference is the switch and cable connector) And HERE WE IS!!!

A top view with lights on (may be hard to see)

A side view showing key better.


All lights flying, Captain!!