Let's put in the Scootworks Lowering Kit, which they were so nice as to put on sale just AFTER I bought mine!

The instructions say it is SO easy, and maybe for some it will be. IT WAS NOT FOR ME! Everything went smooth until I tried to "push" the little metal bushing out of the rubber grommet from the bottom of the shock, using " a finger or screwdriver" like they suggested. Right. The Hulk's forefinger, maybe! I had to finally (after ruining two trying to pound them out with sockets and a hammer) had to resort to a 6 ton press!! Worked though, and then of course, right afterward, I figured out a way to not even use the originals! More on that as we go. The kit didn't fit as smooth as they said either. I have now done mine, and helped with another, so figure myself quite experienced. I talked to someone at Scootworks (no names) about these problems and they assured me if I sent them an original they would "slip that bugger right out for me!". Well, I shipped it and haven't seen any more response than to the year plus overdue Crash Guards!

This was finally post on Yahoo's EN500 group on 9/23:

Posted by: "Tweek" wb4iuy@amsat.org wb4iuy

Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:35 am (PDT)

Some users of the Scootworks EN500 Lowering Kit reported the newer
bikes (seem to be mostly '07+) had the metal insert glued/vulcanized
into the factory bushing in the lower shock eye. This makes it
difficult or impossible to remove for use with the Scootworks lowering
kit. We obtained several from Kawasaki, and found that some of them
(randomly) were also glued/vulcanized in.

We are now manufacturing double-tapered replacement bushings to
include with all of the 500 lowering kits, in the event this happens
to be the case with a customer's bike. If any of you have experienced
this and need bushings, please contact me at support @ scootworks .
com or call 919-269-0986 x32 and I'll have a set sent out to you. I
don't get much time to get on the forums this time of year, so email
or phone is the best way.

Dave

 

Anyway, on to "my way", and we will get this done!

Here is a picture of the two adapters.

They, when mounted, just move the lower shock mounting point backwards, so it drops the rear of the bike about 2 1/3". DO REMEMBER if you are as heavy as I am, that bumps do NOT feel as smooth! In fact I bottom out now on stuff I never even used to consider! (that's why I broke the oil pan. I was used to riding over the concrete divider! Duh! lowered the back 2 1/2 inches! Think that might have lowered the MIDDLE where the engine is? Yep, do now! It does ride MUCH better on flat roads though, just got to unlearn a few bad habits. Kind of like getting used to a low-rider when you used to have a super truck!

Here are a couple of views with the stock shocks and mounts.

These next two show the bike up on my $49.95 Harbor Freight lift. Works great, but need to make some adapters for the frame. As is I just put a board under the oil pan. (that didn't work that well, when replacing the oil pan was why I needed it lifted!) I just used one strap to the handlebar and down to the jack and it holds stiff as a board!

Here we show taking out the standard mounting bolt for the bottom of the shock and why Scootworks should have told you to remove the muffler first!! (unless their vast experience also includes elastic bolts and wrenches). Or, I guess you could file a slot in the top of the muffler to get the bolt out the last 2"!!

Here is how it REALLY works!!

First this, then....

Much mo better, huh?? Now here below, is that little metal bushing they want you to "finger push" out of the rubber!!

Do any of you mechanical types think that looks like the rubber is Vulcanized (sorry for the pun, couldn't help it! That IS the right work after all) to the metal insert? Well, it IS! I finally got one off but cutting it off, but as the rubber part is what we want to reuse (according to Scootworks) that's a little self defeating! The reason we have to take it out is if we follow instructions (why start now?) that the hole with it IN, is much smaller than the threaded stud it has to go over! Like this picture below shows!

Oops! Back to MY drawing board.

For fun here are some pictures of trying to get the "finger tight" bushing out using a 1 TON press and a socket (Scootworks suggestion) if it didn't "slip right out".

Good huh??

BTW, it BROKE the 1 TON press doing just that amount of "pushing" to the bushing!

MY better idea! Let's scrounge around for a rubber bushing that fits ok, that doesn't HAVE a metal insert as an integral part of it!! Just so happens my local Lompoc Honda dealer is as patient as the HD shop with me! We found a perfect (close enough) fit in the Honda p/n# 52489-MW3-305 Bush, Rubber ! Here are some of the bikes it fits so if you have to try and find one on the cheap ( I think they were only a few dollars apiece, but...)GL1500C '97 US, GL1500CF, VALKYRIE INTERSTATE 1999 US, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 AR/KPH, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 E/MPH, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 ED/KPH, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 F/KPH, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 G/KPH, CB750F2R , SEVEN FIFTY 1994 G/KPH50P , B750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 G/KPH27P , B750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 SP/KPH, CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 SW/KPH. CB750F2R SEVEN FIFTY 1994 U/KPH, GL1500C1 2001 CM/KMH, GL1500CD1 2001 CM/KMH, GL1500CD2 2002 CM/KMH, GL1500CD3 2003 CM/KMH, GL1500CTV VALKYRIE 1997 CM/RBMWIN, GL1500CTV VALKYRIE 1997 U/RBMWIN, GL1500CTW VALKYRIE 1998 CM/RBMWIN, GL1500CTW VALKYRIE 1998 U/RBMWIN, GL1500CTX VALKYRIE 1999 CM/RBMWIN, GL1500CTX VALKYRIE 1999 U/RBMWIN, GL1500CTY VALKYRIE 2000 CM/RBMWIN, GL1500CTY VALKYRIE 2000 U/RBMWIN, GL1500CV F6C 1997 AR, GL1500CV VALKYRIE 1997 CM/RBM, GL1500CV F6C 1997 E, GL1500CV F6C 1997 ED, GL1500CV F6C 1997 F, GL1500CV F6C 1997 G, GL1500CV F6C 1997 SW, GL1500CV VALKYRIE 1997 U/RBM, GL1500CW F6C 1998 AR, GL1500CW VALKYRIE 1998 CM/RBM, GL1500CW F6C 1998 E, GL1500CW F6C 1998 ED, GL1500CW F6C 1998 F , GL1500CW F6C 1998 G, GL1500CW F6C 1998 SW, GL1500CW VALKYRIE 1998 U/RBM, GL1500CX F6C 1999 AR, GL1500CX VALKYRIE 1999 CM/RBM, GL1500CX F6C 1999 E, GL1500CX F6C 1999 ED, GL1500CX F6C 1999 F, GL1500CX F6C 1999 G, GL1500CX F6C 1999 SW, GL1500CX VALKYRIE 1999 U/RBM, GL1500CY F6C 2000 AR, GL1500CY VALKYRIE 2000 CM/RBM. I KNOW you didn't need all those, but I ALWAYS get some emails on EVERY mod, no matter how cheap I do it,if there isn't a way to scrounge one or something! YES, here ya go! The scrounging part YOU have to learn.

Here is the cute little bugger.

or in the package:..

A little DW40 (my hero) on it, and it presses right into the shock end.

Notice the old one too!

Now we can install the adapter per the instructions. (of course it won't set down like they say without the weight of the bike on it, but...)

A little locktite (blue) on the hold down bolt!

Once the adapter is tightly in place, we can put the shock and it's NEW bushing on over the new rearward mounting stud.

Notice how the adapter is held upwards by being so tight against the mount?

Another view showing it. I couldn't even push down on the bike hard enough to seat it against the rear swing arm strut. Fortunately, after doing both sides and letting the bike down somewhat, it's own weight does it. (hey, it still outweighs me by 200 lbs!)

There we go! Just like Scootworks promised, just not the same route they suggested! Here is a picture of the other side too.

Put the mufflers back and and ready to ride!!!! The lean this gives, especially with the 4" handlebar risers (Scootworks again, but perfectly by the instructions), makes it lean back a little, which is what i am used to. (In the "old" days, I used to build Triumph 3 and 4 cylinder rigs with springer front ends, custom frames, you name it! That was in the early 70's, and there weren't that many "bolt on" kits, including springer front ends. You had to "make" them all fit!
Here are 2 final pictures showing the difference in the shocks and the bike's attitude. (no, I have that kind of attitude, the bike's is how it sets!) I show the original with the "after" for comparison.

I know I probably am imagining it, but it actually seems to be more responsive on the front end. I can corner better (I LIKE scraping pegs! A titanium bolt on the bottom of the peg is amazing! GOT to do that!) and even does slow turns better. In fact that is the only problem I have had with this bike (unlike the ones IT has with ME) is that in a slow, tight turn, even at a slow speed, it seemed awkward, like it was too easy to turn too far (foot down, POINTS!) This configuration it isn't any harder than a sharp 90 degree turn (yes I do, and so can you. Military corners stuck with me I guess!)

Notice the AFTER pictures have the new single seat. I will write that up next. Doing these pages is a one night job, but editing the pictures (I use a LARGE format digital - all 10 megs worth) down to a usable size takes a LOT of time. The ones here in this article were probably 6-7 hours to resize, adjust color, crop, etc..

Hope you like this mod. REMEMBER THE BOTTOM CLEARANCE!!!! The engine is LOWER TOO now!! If you have a Kalifornia version, you WILL be hitting the emissions control box in back of the engine! Guaranteed! (A skid plate is in the works too)

Paul